20070607

Non-Traditional Families and Some Financial Thoughts

There are an increasing number of couples who have chosen for one reason or another to not get married, or same-sex couples who don't have the option of marriage. This leaves them with some financial issues that married folks don't have to consider.

Here is an article from New York Life that provides some good ideas for how unmarried couples can effectively plan for their financial lives. And another article from the San Francisco Chronicle.

New York Life article
San Francisco Chronicle article

In your corner, Tina Anders
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Financial Benefits of Marriage

I know a couple who is engaged to be married. They asked me what the financial effects of being married are.

Here is an article from Nolo Press about what all couples should know about marriage and its financial ramifications.

Nolo Press article

In your corner, Tina Anders
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20070525

Life Insurance - How Much Do You Need?

Who needs life insurance? And how much of it? Short answers: pretty much everyone, and enough to pay all your bills and the life expenses for those who are dependent on your income. The long answers: almost everyone who has anyone dependent on their income. And how much? Here is a calculation to give you a rough idea of how much life insurance you may need. You can also use iQuote's calculator to see how much you may need.

Household expenses to be covered by life insurance:

Final expenses (funeral, estate taxes, etc.)

(1) $__________

Payment of consumer debt (credit cards, other loans)

(2) $__________

Emergency fund

(3) $__________

College fund

(4) $__________

Expected Living Expenses:

  • Average living expense
  • $__________

  • Less spouse's income after taxes
  • $_________
  • Less annual Social Security benefits
  • $_________
  • = Net annual living expenses
  • = (a) $__________

  • Years till spouse is 90
  • __________

  • Investment rate factor (see below)
  • (b) __________

Total living expenses: (a x b)

(5) $__________

Total monetary needs (1 + 2 + 3 + 4 + 5)

$__________

Less: Total current investments

$_________

Estimated Life insurance needs $__________

Investment Rate Factors; Years till spouse is 90:

25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60

20 22 25 27 30 31 33 35 ~ Conservative investment

16 17 19 20 21 21 22 23 ~ Aggressive investment

Life insurance is good to consider and have if you have debts that will need to be paid off upon your death, and if you have others whose living expenses are dependent on your income.

In your corner, Tina Anders

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20070520

Roth Conversions - Sometimes a Very Good Idea

Many of us have Roth IRA funds that we will access once we reach age 59.5, and have had the funds in the Roth for at least five years. The two great features of the Roth, as noted in another article on this blog, are that when we take Roth money out, it is tax-free! Even the earnings! And secondly, there are no required minimum distributions (RMDs) like there are with a Traditional IRA. At age 70.5, one must start taking money out of a Traditional IRA, yet with a Roth, there are no RMDs. Why care about that? Well, if you want to pass your IRA onto an heir tax-free while avoiding probate (with a designated beneficiary), this is a good way to do it. But what about if we have Traditional IRAs? How can we get that money without taxation?

A Traditional IRA can be converted to a Roth IRA in some cases, depending on income levels. If you are single or married filing jointly and your adjusted gross income (AGI) is less than $100,000, the IRS says you may convert your IRA to a Roth. However, note that if you do convert your Traditional IRA to a Roth IRA, you will be taxed on the amount you converted. This is the reason you won't be taxed at withdrawal; you've already paid taxes on this money. If your AGI is more than $100,000, the IRS says you cannot convert. However, and this is a notable however, the tax laws change in 2010 to allow a person with any income level to convert their IRA to a Roth.

This brings up a good point. What if I want a Roth when I retire, yet my AGI is above the limits for Roth contributions? Well, one might consider putting money into a Traditional IRA (even if the contributions aren't tax deductible), then convert in 2010 and later (if the laws allow), thereby getting the money tax-free AND not having to take RMDs, ever. In other words, if you want to avoid required distributions at 70.5 for a Traditional IRA, put money into a Roth and never withdraw it if you don't need to. That way, you are passing tax-free money onto your heirs without suffering any penalties in the meantime.

Talk to your financial professional to see if a Roth conversion, or a Traditional IRA, would be a good fit for you.

In your corner, Tina Anders
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20070508

Taxes - Are You Audit-Ready? Are You Paying Too Much?

Did you know that the Tax Foundation has shown that the typical two-earner family spends more on federal, state, and local taxes than they do for food, shelter, clothing, and transportation combined?! To minimize what you owe in taxes, have a look at some suggestions I'll include later in this article. First, let's discuss what types of records you should keep on hand in case of an audit.

If you want to be ready for an audit (fingers crossed it won't happen to you), there are some tax records you'll want to have on hand. The IRS, by the way, considers you guilty (and this is legal) until you prove yourself innocent. Arm yourself with these, just in case:

  • Current tax forms and instructions
  • Copies of previous years' returns (save at least four years)
  • W-2 forms from employers
  • Social Security numbers
  • 1099 forms for interest, self employment
  • 1098 forms for mortgage interest paid
  • Receipts and documentation for expenses
  • Investment and business expense documentation
  • Anything else you used to claim deductions or credits in order to lower your tax bill

Here's a list of suggestions you might consider for lowering your tax bill:
  • Own a home? The mortgage interest and real estate taxes are deductible, and if you can itemize, will lower your tax liability.
  • Put money in tax-deferred retirement plans, like 403(b)s, 401ks, or IRAs. This will give you a deduction (or if it's taken out of your paycheck automatically, you aren't taxed on it). Certain limitations apply to IRA deductibility, so check with a professional before taking the deduction. (You can put money in no matter what your income, just can't always take a deduction for it.)
  • Hold your investments for at least a year, if appropriate, to reduce your tax liability on capital gains. Capital gains on investments held longer than a year are taxed at a significantly reduced rate.
  • If you are a business owner, open a Keogh retirement account to get your tax savings, while saving for retirement.
  • Live in your home for at least two of the last five years to have access to deferred capital gains tax when you sell your home. For individuals, you are able to not claim $250,000 of your capital gains when you sell your home. For married folks, you are able to not claim $500,000. There are special rules that apply here, so check with a professional if you want to avoid large taxes on the sale of your home.
  • Open a 529 plan for college education - your money will grow tax-free if it's pulled out for proper education expenses, such as books tuition, room and board...You don't get a deduction for the amount you put in, yet you aren't taxed on the earnings (as you would be for a non tax-deferred investment account).
  • Open a Roth IRA. It works a lot like a 529 plan: no deduction for funding it, yet growth is tax-free if you hold it for at least five years and don't take it out till you're 59.5 years. Certain income limitations apply to Roths, so check with a professional before funding one.
  • Business owners can deduct costs of life and health insurances.
  • If you work in your home, you may be able to write off a home office, which could include a part of your rent or mortgage, PG&E, internet, phone bill, renter's or homeowner's insurance, and more. Be sure to check with your CPA. There are large deductions available to self-employed folks, and more if you work in your home (as your primary office).
  • If you expect to have the same, or lower, tax rate next year, accelerate your deductions into the current year. In other words, if your tax rate is 28% this year, yet next year you plan on reducing it due to some business start-up expenses, for instance, take some deductions this year instead of next. How? Donate more to charity this year, rather than spreading your donations over two years. Pay your January mortgage payment early, say in December. That way, your 1098 (mortgage interest statement) will show more interest paid in that particular tax year.
  • If you expect to have a lower or same tax rate next year, delay receiving income until next year. In other words, if a client owes you money, get paid in January instead of December. The income will be subject to the next year's tax rate instead of this year's.
  • If you expect to have a higher tax rate next year, try taking deductions later (next year) instead of this year.

Just some thoughts that might come in handy should you have the desire to not over-pay your taxes, and to be ready if the IRS comes knocking.

In your corner, Tina Anders

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20070503

Should You Refinance?

These are challenging economic times. You may notice that homes aren't selling, partially because interest rates have increased. In fact, there are many homes on which there are foreclosures because folks have found themselves amidst a variable rate (read interest only) mortgage trend. Now that rates have gone up, the mortgage payment has increased beyond the mortgagee's financial means. Or, perhaps this will be the case if rates continue increasing. Should you refinance?

You might consider refinancing if your current mortgage interest rate is a variable rate and you anticipate climbing rates. Refinancing is most advantageous when you can get a rate 2 to 3 percent lower than your current rate, and when you plan to own your home for at least another two years. There are fixed rate loans out there that will lock you into a payment that will not change, so you can expect the same payment for the life of the loan. It's nice to have when you want predictability with your financial life. And refinancing does not necessarily mean getting a fixed rate loan. You can get a low introductory rate variable loan, yet be careful of the potential increasing payment down the line.

Some folks I know want to refinance their current mortgage to a 15-year fixed. They like the idea of being free of a house payment in fifteen years - wouldn't that be nice? Of course it would. And the monthly payment's a little bigger, but wouldn't it be great to have it paid off in 15 years??

This idea gives me pause, however. What happens if you step into a financially constrained time? For instance, what if your income should take a dip because of an unexpected event? Maybe you have an injury (fingers crossed that you don't) that prohibits you from working your normal schedule, thereby decreasing your income. If this were to happen, you could find yourself in trouble when it comes to making that higher mortgage payment.

If you'd gotten a 30-year fixed, your payment would be lower and if you were to land on difficult times, you wouldn't have as much trouble making it. If it's important to you to have the house paid off in fifteen years, what I ask you to consider is securing a 30-year fixed loan and then making additional payments in the year for "principal only", to help pay it down sooner. (Call your mortgage lender to find out how to label your "principal only" payment so that it gets applied to only your principal.) That way, you could have it paid off in fifteen years, yet without the risk of not being able to make the higher payment. This gives you some freedom and security, with the option to turn your loan into a 15-year just by virtue of making extra payments.

Before considering whether to refinance, find out if you have a mortgage with a pre-payment penalty. If so, you will incur financial penalties if you pay off (refinance) the mortgage. You will need to factor in these costs to decide whether it's worth it to refinance.

Let's look at how to compute the costs of a refinance and how long it would take to break even, so to speak. In other words, how long till the costs of refinancing are paid off so that all future payments result in a long-term savings?

Costs of refinancing:

Points: $
Application fee: $
Credit Report: $
Attorney fees: $
Title search: $
Title insurance: $
Appraisal fee: $
Inspection fee: $
Other fees: $


= Total refinancing costs: $ (X)

Monthly savings:
Current monthly mortgage payment: $
Less:
New monthly mortgage payment: $

= Monthly savings: $ (Y)

Number of months to cover finance costs:

Refinance costs (X) divided by monthly savings (Y)
(X)/(Y)
= # months to break even before you start saving via your refinance

If you'd like to look into refinancing further, monitor changing mortgage rates on Bankrate.com and talk to more than one mortgage broker to compare what's offered. You can also go to a "refinance or not?" calculator at CNN Money.


In your corner, Tina Anders

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20070428

Save For Your Future - With Tax Benefits!

There are many ways to save for retirement. In another article, we've discussed 403(b) accounts for educators and those working in some non-profit organizations. I'd like to discuss Roth IRAs and Traditional IRAs, as they are both tools available to us in order to save for our retirement years. First, let's talk about Traditional IRAs, then Roths.

A Traditional IRA (Individual Retirement Account, or Annuity) is a type of pre-tax retirement savings arrangement in which contributions, up to certain limits (I'll go into that in a moment), and their earnings, are tax-deferred. Tax-deferred doesn't mean tax-free. It means that the taxes on these contributions, and their earnings, will be paid upon withdrawal. The idea is that if we can get a tax break now, in our earning years, then we're getting an immediate 25% return on our money (assuming a 25% tax rate). And on top of that, the growth on those investments is also tax-free until taken out. Some folks think that when we retire, we'll be in a lower tax bracket, so the taxes we pay will not hit us as hard as if we were paying them now.

If you put money into a taxable account, on the other hand, you'd be contributing after-tax money and would not get tax-deferred earnings. You'd have to pay taxes on your realized capital gains, dividends, rents, and interest for those investments on an annual basis. This isn't necessary when saving for retirement, which is why the IRA is such a good choice. Of course, if you're saving for something shorter term, then an IRA won't usually be the best choice because if you choose to use your IRA money for something before you're 59.5, then you could incur stiff penalties. Be sure to find out the rules before taking IRA money out.

There are limits as to how much of our contributions are deductibe. For instance, in general, the lesser of 100% of your earned income (not income from investments), or $5,000 is deductible from taxes. If you're 50 years or older, you can take an extra $1,000 on top of that. Take the deduction on your 1040 tax return. It'll cut your tax bill down.

Now, if you are also participating in a retirement program through your employer (or self-employment), your contributions will have limits for deductibility. I won't go into all of the numbers here, yet it would behoove you to check with your financial professional to go over it before deducting.

Roth IRAs are a little different from Traditional IRAs. Roth IRAs don't allow deduction for contributions. The contributions are after-tax, yet the good news is that - here's where it gets really good - you pay no taxes on your contributions or your earnings when you withdraw them. You already paid taxes on your contributions, so you don't have to pay again at withdrawal, and the extra bonus is that unlike the Traditional IRA, the earnings are not taxed upon withdrawal. Some folks like this idea because they theorize that tax rates may go up in our future, thereby avoiding future higher taxes upon withdrawal. (A brief note about that: Taxpayers are paying less of their income for federal taxes now than they've paid in the last 28 years!)

And worth mentioning is that even though an immediate tax deduction is not available for Roth contributions, there is a tax credit via the Retirement Savings Contributions Credit, for low- and middle-income taxpayers. In other words, if you qualify, you can take a credit on the back of your 1040 form for your Roth contributions. Remember that tax credits actually reduce your tax bill dollar for dollar. Nice!

Roth IRA contribution limits are basically the same as for Traditional IRAs: $4,000 from earned income, with another $1,000 for individuals at least 50 years old. However, if an individual earns over a certain amount, then s/he cannot contribute to a Roth. Here you go:

  • If you are unmarried and make at least $95,000, then you may be able to contribute some, yet not all $4,000.
  • The same goes for if you are married and filing a joint return: can't earn over $150,000 if you want to contribute the full $4,000.
  • And if you are married filing separately, you are gradually phased out up to $10,000 earnings, then if you make more than $10,000, you cannot contribute to a Roth.
  • Be sure to check in with your financial professional to find out if you qualify, and for how much.
Roth IRAs also may have penalties attached if you use the money before reaching the age of 59.5 (and at least a 5-year holding period), with many rules applying here. Like with the Traditional IRA, check it out before taking money out.

Note that you are allowed to contribute to a Traditional IRA until you reach 70.5 years. And you must begin taking money out the year after you hit that age, as well. You can, however, contribute to a Roth till the end of your life, and there are no mandatory withdrawals until you pass. In addition, if you contribute to both a Traditional and a Roth IRA, your total contributions cannot exceed the limit for each (you cannot put $4,000 into each; you can put $1,500 in one, for instance, and another $2,500 in the other).

So, to put away $4,000 per year for retirement in a tax-advantaged program would not only save you taxes in your earning years, but would only cost you $333.33 per month. Set it up! Open an IRA account and have your contributions taken straight from your checking account automatically every month. It's easier that way. And if $333.33 is more than what feels right at this point, try a lesser amount. The point is, just do it (to coin a phrase I've heard...). You'll be proud of yourself and when retirement comes, you'll be very glad you did.

In your corner. Tina Anders

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20070426

Protect Your Earnings

Did you know that about half of all employees will have a disability that lasts for at least 90 days sometime during their working years, and one of every ten persons can expect to be permanently disabled before the age of 65? Anyone who earns more than $25,000 per year from employment and is not already covered by private individual disability insurance has a significant need for it. This includes the self-employed, business owners, partners, individual workers, and anyone else who would have inadequate income in case of their inability to work for their incomes. I am not trying to frighten you with these little-known facts, yet it's important that you know so that you might look into ways to protect yourself just in case.

I am going to discuss disability insurance in this article because it is by far one of the most important insurances a person can have (if s/he has living expenses that are dependent on employment income). Disability insurance, as many of you know, is a program that will pay you a certain percentage of your income in the case you are unable to work due to injury or illness. If you are going to miss work for an extended period, your insurance will become the supplier of your paycheck, so to speak.

First, here is a list of all of our possible sources of income coverage in case of illness or injury:

  1. Worker's compensation insurance
  2. State temporary disability insurance
  3. Social Security
  4. Employer provided sick leave
  5. Employer provided short-term disability insurance
  6. Employer provided long-term disability insurance
  7. Individual disability insurance - very highly recommended
Let's start by talking briefly about employer provided disability insurance. Employer insurance is called "group" insurance, and is offered via sick leave plans and disability insurance plans. Usually, the sick leave plan is a short-term insurance plan that will provide income for a period up to 6 months. A long-term disability plan will usually provide benefits for extended periods of time, sometimes for life, after an initial waiting period, frequently 6 months. The premiums are paid by the employer and the benefits received by the employee are taxable. Employer plans can come up short in terms of the contract provisions. I'll get to that in a moment.

Individual contracts are oftentimes the best way to go due to the various options, provisions, and riders available to the person signing on. (See below.) Individual disability policy premiums are paid with after-tax dollars, thereby enabling the insured to receive the benefits tax-free.

If you've had the experience of having to rely on your disability insurance, you'll know that your insurance coverage is less than your normal gross income. The reason is that insurers feel that if you were to receive a 100% income replacement, you'd lose your incentive to return to work. In addition, they believe you don't need 100% of your income because your work-related expenses are reduced (commute, lunches out, work related laundry...), and your benefits may not be subject to Social Security withholding, like they were with your normal paycheck.

There are three definitions for "disability" that you should be aware of when shopping for disability insurance.
  1. "Own Occupation", aka Own Occ. This is the most comprehensive definition of total disability available. This type of policy will have a definition that says: ...The inability to perform the material and substantial duties of your regular occupation...The insurance company will consider your occupation to be the occupation you are engaged in at the time you become disabled and they will pay the claim even if you are working in some other capacity. Own-occupation disability insurance is the only plan that does not penalize a person for going back to work in a different occupation while receiving benefits. Under this type of plan, if because of a sickness or injury, you cannot perform in your occupation, you will be considered totally disabled, even if you choose to do something else.
  2. "Any Occupation", aka Any Occ. This has become the most common definition of total disability in the industry today. Most insurance carriers that have stopped offering own-occupation disability insurance have moved to this definition. The first part of the definition is very similar to the own-occupation definition, but the second part is changed. A typical Any Occ. definition will look something like this: ...Because of sickness or injury you are unable to perform the material and substantial duties of your occupation, and are not engaged in any other occupation... This definition will penalize you during a claim if you make the decision to go back to work, or earn another source of earned income while on a claim.
  3. "Gainful Occupation", aka Gainful Occ. This definition of total disability is very common in an employer sponsored group long-term disability insurance policy, or with auto and homeowner's insurance companies that have added a disability insurance policy. It is the least desirable definition available and should be supplemented with a quality contract. Basically, this definition leaves the determination of whether or not you are disabled up to the insurance company. A typical definition will look like this:
    ...Because of sickness or injury you are unable to perform the material and substantial duties or your occupation, or any occupation for which you are deemed reasonably qualified by education, training, or experience. This could mean that your insurer can tell you that because you are qualified to work at the local burger joint, you are ineligible for a check. This may not happen, yet it is subject to litigation and interpretation. I'd consider staying away from this coverage. Many people who shop for the best price on disability insurance end up with this.
What to look for, other than the definition above:
  • Amount and frequency of total-disability benefits: What percentage of your gross income will be replaced, and how often will you receive payment?
  • Waiting (elimination) period: How long do you have to wait before benefits start coming in?
  • Duration of benefits: For how long will you receive benefits?
  • Are partial-disability benefits available? If you perform some of the duties of your occupation at a speed that is slower than normal, you may be able to receive a benefit, even if you've returned to full-time work. If partial disability is available, what is the insurer's definition of partial disability, and what period of total disability is required before benefits for partial are paid?
  • Coverage for disabilities resulting from organ donation
  • Policy premium
  • Cost of Living increases
  • Rehabilitation benefits: Should you receive disability income, you may need more for rehabilitation costs. This is possible with some policies.
  • Return of premium option: Some policies offer a return to you of a percentage of premiums paid over a past number of years if no claims were filed. This option will increase your premiums, yet some folks like the idea.
  • Waiver of premium provision: If you are receiving benefits, you might consider a provision that states that you are not liable for premiums during this period. When you recover, you again begin paying premiums.
  • Modifications from standard issue: Does the insurer modify the premiums for persons with a higher level of risk? Or perhaps they require a longer elimination (waiting) period before benefits will be paid.
  • Renewability: Is is guaranteed renewable? If so, you can renew it for years to come, yet your premium could (and probably will) increase. Is is non-cancelable? If so, you can renew year after year without a premium increase. This is something worth considering.
  • Presumptive disability: For loss of sight, loss of speech, loss of hearing, or the total loss of use of or severance of both hands, both feet, or one hand and one foot, there is a presumption that there is a total disability. If a person with this disability returns to work, s/he will still receive benefits unless able to recover to an extent that no longer falls under this definition.
  • Riders: Are there extras that can be written into the contract? For instance, a Social Security rider can be added, which will pay an amount greater than the regular payments if the Social Security Administration denies the worker's claim. This sometimes happens when a claimant does not meet the Social Security's definition of total disability.
Many of the above options will increase premiums, yet many are worth the extra.

In sum, should you have disability insurance? You bet! If your employer provides some, great. Look into it. Is it enough? For how long? Use the list above to determine what you need vs. what you have. And good health to you! May you never need to use disability insurance.

In your corner. Tina Anders


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20070420

Educators and the 403(b)

Educators and those working with them have some of the all-time most demanding jobs in existence. To make it to a comfortable retirement takes quite a commitment, including a financial one.

Most educators have a pension waiting for them when heading into retirement, yet sometimes it isn’t enough. A unique savings plan can supplement the pension to make retirement more financially comfortable. In this article, I’ve outlined some particulars that those in the field of education may find helpful in regards to financial planning.

Enter the 403(b). It is a tax-sheltered annuity account, which is a tax deferred retirement plan. (Investments and earnings are tax-deferred, meaning they are taxed upon withdrawal, which usually occurs at retirement.) A 403(b) is much like a 401(k), except it’s for those in the education field (and for those working in some nonprofits), vs. 401(k)s being in the “corporate”, or private sector. Teachers, administrators, nurses, doctors, custodians, and just about all other staff working in the education sector can use a 403(b).

403(b)s can be of great help when wanting to save on taxes, and save for retirement. The money is taken straight out of your paycheck prior to taxation, so you’re getting a great return on your investment right there. For example, if you contribute $100 a month to a 403(b) plan, you've reduced your Federal income taxes by roughly $28 (assuming you are in the 28% tax bracket). In effect, your $100 contribution costs you only $72. Even when you contribute the full $100, your paycheck doesn’t reflect a full $100 decrease. It only shows a $72 decrease (using assumptions above). The tax savings are magnified as your 403(b) contribution increases.


403(b)s come in all shapes and sizes. Your school district will usually offer many choices of mutual funds and annuities. The choice is up to you as far as where you want to place your money. Your choices will depend on factors such as where your other savings are, when you want to access the 403(b) money, how comfortable you are with various investment risks, and others. The good news is that you are able to change your choices should you change your mind. I recommend speaking with an investment advisor to be sure your choices are appropriate to helping you reach your goals.

In 2007, employees can put in the lesser of $15,500 per year, or up to 100% of their compensation. If educators are fortunate enough to have an employer match contributions, the total cannot exceed $45,000 for the year, or 100% of compensation, whichever is less. And, if you have at least 15 years with the same employer, you may be able to contribute an additional $3,000, depending on how much your average contribution was in past years. If you are at least 50 years old at some time during a calendar year, you can add another $5,000.

Contact your school district payroll department to get a Salary Reduction Agreement so that you can start saving (on a tax advantaged basis!) to supplement your pension.

There are some great websites discussing 403(b)s in detail. See the “Research” links on this blog.

In your corner, Tina Anders
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20070418

Educators' Defined Benefit Pension Plan - What's so Good about it??

There are two types of pension plans: defined benefit and defined contribution. Educators, and others (fewer by the minute) have defined benefit pensions, while most other (corporate) employees have defined contribution plans.

I often hear the question, "What's so great about my defined benefit plan? What's the difference between it and other pension plans?" This article will attempt to clarify the differences between the two plans, as well as highlight some of the benefits (no pun intended) of the defined benefit plan.

Defined Contribution pension plans are plans in which the employee sets aside (contributes) money, often pre-tax (like the 403(b)), which will hopefully grow to a sizable sum for retirement. It is called defined contribution because there is a set maximum an employee can contribute. Sometimes the employer will also contribute (match a 401(k), for instance). Some examples of defined contribution plans include 401(K) plans, Roth 401(k) plans, employee stock ownership plans and profit sharing plans.

Defined Benefit pension plans are plans in which the employer sets aside money for the benefit of the employee at retirement age. It is called a defined benefit plan because the benefit amount is predetermined; a participant is told what pension amount will be available. The amount the employer sets aside is based on an actuarial formula that takes into account the age of the employee, the anticipated retirement date, years of service, mortality tables, salary, and so on.

The advantages of Defined Benefit Plans are: They provide employees a guaranteed retirement income, no matter what happens in the stock market, how long an employee lives after retirement, or whether s/he becomes disabled. There is no investment risk to participants (the employer takes on the risk - if the investments lose, the employer is still liable for the pension), there are annual cost of living adjustments to account for inflation, death and disability insurances are typically provided, and the pension is not dependent on the participant’s ability to save. With this type of pension, a participant is generally not required to make contributions and unlike defined contribution plans, the participant is not required to make investment decisions. A defined benefit plan is sometimes referred to as a fully funded pension plan.

The advantages of Defined Contribution plans are: They are a tax deferred retirement savings program, participants have control, within limits, as to how much they choose to save, the investments can be funded through payroll deductions, and participants can make their own decisions as to where to invest their money (and if they chose well, or were "lucky", they reap the benefits of those choices).

The bad news is that defined contribution plans provide no insurance benefit in case of an employee's death or disability; employees must purchase this coverage at additional cost. In addition, the participant bears the investment risk. If their investment choices don't fare well, they may come up short at retirement. This could happen, too, if they didn't contribute enough during their earning years.

The reason defined benefit plans are fewer and farther between these days is because they are very expensive to administer, and costly to fund. Employers are choosing to use defined contribution plans for their employees because of low administrative costs, and low funding requirements. Some employers who have defined benefit plans already in place are switching to the less costly Cash Balance Plan, which resembles a defined benefit plan, but costs much less.

Remember, a defined benefit plan gives all the investment risk and responsibility to the employer. It's a very good pension to have. For teachers, the defined benefit plan is oftentimes a state pension plan, such as the State Teachers' Retirement System. And teachers can not only rely on their defined benefit pension, but can use their 403(b) accounts, IRAs, and Roth IRAs to supplement their pensions.

California State Teachers' Retirement System

In your corner. Tina Anders

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20070414

Fee-Only, Fee-Based, or Stockbroker? Are they the same thing?

Lots of people ask me what the difference is between a stockbroker, a fee-only advisor and a fee-based advisor, or, they ask, "are these different terms for the same thing?" This is a good question that deserves clarification.

The main difference between stockbrokers, fee-based advisors, and fee-only advisors is that the two former are paid commissions on products and services they sell. For instance, when a stockbroker makes a trade (sells and buys a stock, for instance), s/he is paid a commission on the trade. Stockbrokers charge a percentage per trade on stocks and mutual funds. They may also have hidden charges such as additional fees on mutual funds, additional fees and expenses on annuities, and markups on other products, such as unit trusts or bonds.

Fee-based used to be called "fee plus commission." A fee-based advisor is paid a commission or markup from investments that are recommended to the client. A client pays a fee for a plan or other advice, and then pays commissions or markups to buy investments.

A fee-only advisor gets paid for the expertise of putting together financial plans (sometimes an hourly rate) and managing investment portfolios for clients (called "assets under management" fees). There are no commissions on products or services; in fact, fee-only advisors do not sell products. They recommend and can implement investments, yet do not sell them. A fee-only advisor normally charges somewhere between .8 - 1.25% on a portfolio, up to the first million dollars. After that, the fees usually decline on a sliding scale. Fee-only advisors are interested in growing client accounts and providing long-term service.

And finally, fee-based advisors and stockbrokers are held to an oath (basically) that says they are permitted to pick investments for you that are suitableto your situation. Registered Investment Advisors, which are fee-only, are required to take a fiduciary oath promising "to act in good faith and in the best interests of the client." There is a big difference here that is worth noting: If a fee-based advisor or stockbroker recommends a product (that may not be the best-performing product) because s/he will be paid a higher commission than on the better-performing investment, there is no legal issue (either investment is suitable to a client's situation because it will provide the right balance in the portfolio, for instance). However, if a fee-only advisor does this, there is a legal issue because the recommendation wasn't in the client's best interest. Be careful with this. Be sure to request proper disclosures and the products that are in your best interest.

There is nothing wrong in having a "commissioned" financial professional work with your portfolio. Just be aware of the potential conflict of interest. Fee-only professionals have no conflict of interest because no matter what they recommend, they receive no remuneration for making the recommendation. The good news is that there is fairly recent legislation requiring disclosure of potential commissions, and potential conflicts of interest within a financial advisory relationship. Whether you choose to work with a fee-based planner, a stockbroker, or a fee-only planner, ask for full disclosure up front and in writing.

Knowing about the differing fee structures of investment firms can give you the edge you’ll want when making the important decision about where to take your financial business.


In your corner, Tina Anders



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20070412

Trading is Hazardous To Your Wealth

Here is an extremely l-o-n-g paper that outlines some very surprising results of individual investor performance when stock-picking is employed. The article is from THE JOURNAL OF FINANCE• VOL. LV, NO. 2 APRIL 2000

Trading Is Hazardous To Your Wealth: The Common Stock Investment Performance of Individual Investors, by BRAD M. BARBER and TERRANCE ODEAN

If you 'd like a summary...
Here's the skinny on individual investor performance when it comes to trading stocks. Read on for some key paragraphs from the article above that summarize the key point. Note that the italicizing and bolding are of my doing to show emphasis for the reader. Here you go:

"Individual investors who hold common stocks directly pay a tremendous performance penalty for active trading. Of 66,465 households with accounts at a large discount broker during 1991 to 1996, those that trade most earn an annual return of 11.4 percent, while the market returns 17.9 percent. The average household earns an annual return of 16.4 percent, tilts its common stock investment toward high-beta, small, value stocks, and turns over 75 percent of its portfolio annually. Overconfidence can explain high trading levels and the resulting poor performance of individual investors. Our central message is that trading is hazardous to your wealth.

The investor’s chief problem—and even his worst
enemy—is likely to be himself.
Benjamin Graham

Our most dramatic empirical evidence supports the view that overconfidence leads to excessive trading. On one hand, there is very little difference in the gross performance of households that trade frequently ~with monthly turnover in excess of 8.8 percent~ and those that trade infrequently. In contrast, households that trade frequently earn a net annualized geometric mean return of 11.4 percent, and those that trade infrequently earn 18.5 percent. These results are consistent with models where trading emanates from investor overconfidence, but are inconsistent with models where trading results from rational expectations. Though liquidity, riskbased rebalancing, and taxes can explain some trading activity, we argue that it belies common sense that these motivations for trade, even in combination, can explain average annual turnover of more than 250 percent for those households that trade most.

We also document that, overall, the households we analyze significantly underperform relevant benchmarks, after a reasonable accounting for transaction costs. These households earn gross returns ~before accounting for transaction costs~ that are close to those earned by an investment in a valueweighted index of NYSE/AMEX/Nasdaq stocks. During our sample period, an investment in a value-weighted market index earns an annualized geometric mean return of 17.9 percent, the average household earns a gross return of 18.7 percent, and in aggregate households earn a gross return of 18.2 percent. In contrast, the net performance ~after accounting for the bidask spread and commissions~ of these households is below par, with the average household earning 16.4 percent and in aggregate households earning 16.7 percent.

Our descriptive analysis provides several additional conclusions that are noteworthy:
1. Households trade common stocks frequently. The average household turns over more than 75 percent of its common stock portfolio annually.
2. I The average round-trip trade in excess of $1,000 costs three percent in commissions and one percent in bid-ask spread.
3. Households tilt their investments toward small, high-beta stocks. There is a less obvious tilt toward value stocks. In other words, individual investors tilt toward small stocks with high market risk."

And cutting further to the chase for you:
"VII. Conclusion:
We analyze the returns earned on common stock investments by 66,465 households at a large discount brokerage firm for the six years ending in January 1997. We document that the gross returns ~before accounting for transaction costs! earned by these households are quite ordinary, on average.

Unfortunately, the net returns ~after accounting for the bid-ask spread and commissions paid by these investors~ earned by these households are poor. The average household underperforms a value-weighted market index by about 9 basis points per month ~or 1.1 percent annually. After accounting for the fact that the average household tilts its common stock investments toward small value stocks with high market risk, the underperformance averages 31 basis points per month ~or 3.7 percent annually. The average household turns over approximately 75 percent of its common stock portfolio annually. The poor performance of the average household can be traced to the costs associated with this high level of trading.

Our most dramatic empirical evidence is provided by the 20 percent of households that trade most often. With average monthly turnover of in excess of 20 percent, these households turn their common stock portfolios over more than twice annually. The gross returns earned by these high-turnover households are unremarkable, and their net returns are anemic. The net returns lag a value-weighted market index by 46 basis points per month ~or 5.5 percent annually. After a reasonable accounting for the fact that the average high-turnover household tilts its common stock investments toward small value stocks with high market risk, the underperformance averages 86 basis points per month ~or 10.3 percent annually.The investment experience of individual investors is remarkably similar to the investment experience of mutual funds. As do individual investors, the average mutual fund underperforms a simple market index. Mutual funds trade often and their trading hurts performance. But trading by individual investors is even more deleterious to performance because individuals execute small trades and face higher proportional commission costs than mutual funds.

Our main point is simple: Trading is hazardous to your wealth. Why then do investors trade so often? The aggregate turnover of the individual investor portfolios we analyze is about 70 percent; the average turnover is about 75 percent. The New York Stock Exchange reports that the annual turnover of stocks listed on the exchange hovered around 50 percent during our sample period. Mutual funds average an annual turnover of 77 percent. We believe that these high levels of trading can be at least partly explained by a simple behavioral bias: People are overconfident, and overconfidence leads to too much trading.

Based on rational agents free from such behavioral biases, the efficient market hypothesis has been central to both the theory and practice of investment management. The efficiency research posits that private information is rare. Thus, active investment strategies will not outperform passive investment strategies. Both the theoretical and empirical work on efficiency supporting this view have led to a rise of passive investment strategies that simply buy and hold diversified portfolios.

Behavioral finance models that incorporate investor overconfidence provide an even stronger prediction: Active investment strategies will underperform passive investment strategies. Overconfident investors will overestimate the value of their private information, causing them to trade too actively and, consequently, to earn below-average returns.

Consistent with these behavioral models of investor overconfidence, we provide empirical evidence that households, which hold about half of U.S. equities, trade too much, on average. Those who trade the most are hurt the most."

In your corner. Tina Anders
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20070410

Modern Portfolio Theory - What's it all about?

Here's an article on Modern Portfolio Theory, a theory that discusses offsetting risk in portfolios by diversifying their holdings. Ever remember hearing, "Don't put all your eggs in one basket?" Same idea. Read on...In your corner, Tina Anders

Modern Portfolio Theory: An Overview
March 14, 2006 By Ben McClure, Contributor - Investopedia Advisor

If you were to craft the perfect investment, you would probably want its attributes to include high returns coupled with little risk. The reality, of course, is that this kind of investment is next to impossible to find. Not surprisingly, people spend a lot of time developing methods and strategies that come close to the "perfect investment". But none is as popular, or as compelling, as modern portfolio theory (MPT). Here we look at the basic ideas behind MPT, the pros and cons of the theory, and how MPT affects the management of your portfolio.

The Theory
One of the most important and influential economic theories dealing with finance and investment, MPT was developed by Harry Markowitz and published under the title "Portfolio Selection" in the 1952 Journal of Finance. MPT says that it is not enough to look at the expected risk and return of one particular stock. By investing in more than one stock, an investor can reap the benefits of diversification - chief among them, a reduction in the riskiness of the portfolio. MPT quantifies the benefits of diversification, also known as not putting all of your eggs in one basket.

For most investors, the risk they take when they buy a stock is that the return will be lower than expected. In other words, it is the deviation from the average return. Each stock has its own standard deviation from the mean, which MPT calls "risk".

The risk in a portfolio of diverse individual stocks will be less than the risk inherent in holding any single one of the individual stocks (provided the risks of the various stocks are not directly related). Consider a portfolio that holds two risky stocks: one that pays off when it rains and another that pays off when it doesn't rain. A portfolio that contains both assets will always pay off, regardless of whether it rains or shines. Adding one risky asset to another can reduce the overall risk of an all-weather portfolio.

In other words, Markowitz showed that investment is not just about picking stocks, but about choosing the right combination of stocks among which to distribute one's nest eggs.

Two Kinds of Risk
Modern portfolio theory states that the risk for individual stock returns has two components:

Systematic Risk - These are market risks that cannot be diversified away. Interest rates, recessions and wars are examples of systematic risks.

Unsystematic Risk - Also known as "specific risk", this risk is specific to individual stocks and can be diversified away as you increase the number of stocks in your portfolio. It represents the component of a stock's return that is not correlated with general market moves.

For a well-diversified portfolio, the risk - or average deviation from the mean - of each stock contributes little to portfolio risk. Instead, it is the difference - or covariance - between individual stocks' levels of risk that determines overall portfolio risk. As a result, investors benefit from holding diversified portfolios instead of individual stocks.

The Efficient Frontier
Now that we understand the benefits of diversification, the question of how to identify the best level of diversification arises. Enter the efficient frontier.

For every level of return, there is one portfolio that offers the lowest possible risk, and for every level of risk, there is a portfolio that offers the highest return. These combinations can be plotted on a graph, and the resulting line is the efficient frontier.

Any portfolio that lies on the upper part of the curve is efficient: it gives the maximum expected return for a given level of risk. A rational investor will only ever hold a portfolio that lies somewhere on the efficient frontier. The maximum level of risk that the investor will take on determines the position of the portfolio on the line.

Modern portfolio theory takes this idea even further. It suggests that combining a stock portfolio that sits on the efficient frontier with a risk-free asset, the purchase of which is funded by borrowing, can actually increase returns beyond the efficient frontier. In other words, if you were to borrow to acquire a risk-free stock, then the remaining stock portfolio could have a riskier profile and, therefore, a higher return than you might otherwise choose.

What MPT Means for You
Modern portfolio theory has had a marked impact on how investors perceive risk, return and portfolio management. The theory demonstrates that portfolio diversification can reduce investment risk. In fact, modern money managers routinely follow its precepts.

That being said, MPT has some shortcomings in the real world. For starters, it often requires investors to rethink notions of risk. Sometimes it demands that the investor take on a perceived risky investment (futures, for example) in order to reduce overall risk. That can be a tough sell to an investor not familiar with the benefits of sophisticated portfolio management techniques. Furthermore, MPT assumes that it is possible to select stocks whose individual performance is independent of other investments in the portfolio. But market historians have shown that there are no such instruments; in times of market stress, seemingly independent investments do, in fact, act as though they are related.

Likewise, it is logical to borrow to hold a risk-free asset and increase your portfolio returns, but finding a truly risk-free asset is another matter. Government-backed bonds are presumed to be risk free, but, in reality, they are not. Securities such as gilts and U.S. Treasury bonds are free of default risk, but expectations of higher inflation and interest rate changes can both affect their value.

Then there is the question of the number of stocks required for diversification. How many is enough? Mutual funds can contain dozens and dozens of stocks. Investment guru William J. Bernstein says that even 100 stocks is not enough to diversify away unsystematic risk. By contrast, Edwin J. Elton and Martin J. Gruber, in their book "Modern Portfolio Theory And Investment Analysis" (1981), conclude that you would come very close to achieving optimal diversity after adding the twentieth stock.

Conclusion
The gist of MPT is that the market is hard to beat and that the people who beat the market are those who take above-average risk. It is also implied that these risk takers will get their comeuppance when markets turn down.


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20070407

Active vs. Passive Management

Here is an article worth the read. It talks about the two types of investment (portfolio) management, and why one's benefits may outweigh the other's. It's a long article, yet worth the time. Have a look. In your corner, Tina Anders

Active vs. Passive Management
By Rex A. Sinquefield
October 1995

The following paper is a transcript of Rex Sinquefield's opening statement in debate with Donald Yacktman at the Schwab Institutional conference in San Francisco, October 12, 1995.

Let us agree on what we are debating, discussing and disagreeing about: active vs. passive management. Active management is the art of stock picking and market timing. Passive management refers to a buy-and-hold approach to money management. It can be applied to any asset class: big stocks, small stocks, value or growth, foreign or domestic can all be accessed by passive techniques. Neither label, "active" or "passive," is perfect, and there will not always be a complete dichotomy between them. In any event, this is a debate about both market behavior and investor behavior.

Efficient market theory is the theory postulating that market prices reflect the knowledge and expectations of all investors. It asserts that any new development is instantaneously priced into a security, thus making it impossible to consistently beat the market.

With respect to market behavior there are, at the extremes, two views. At one extreme is the well-known efficient market hypothesis, which says that the prices are always fair and quickly reflective of information. In such a world neither professional investors nor the proverbial "little investors" will be able to systematically pick winners... or losers. At the other extreme is what I'll call the market failure hypothesis. According to this view, prices react to information slowly enough to allow some investors, presumably professionals, to systematically outperform markets and most other investors.

At the level of investor behavior, this discussion deals with how a financial advisor should handle his or her clients' money. It is my contention that active management does not make sense theoretically and isn't justified empirically. Other than that, it's O.K. But it's easy to understand the allure, the seductive power of active management. After all, it's exciting, fun to dip and dart, pick stocks and time markets; to get paid high fees for this, and to do it all with someone else's money.

Passive management, on the other hand, stands on solid theoretical grounds, has enormous empirical support, and works very well for investors.

At the end of 1973 there was $50 million invested in index funds. Today, there is roughly $1 trillion invested in passive portfolios of all sorts in the United States and abroad. Clearly, this is an idea that is here to stay. A rather impressive group of investors worldwide believes it is difficult to beat markets and perhaps better not to try. These investors are responding to a mountain of evidence that markets work. Such investors believe that in every asset class they choose, their best course of action is to accept market returns.

Where is this mountain of evidence? The 20th century has produced two grand experiments that bear directly on the question "do markets work?" One experiment took place on the geopolitical stage and the other in the halls of academia.

The intellectual origin for the role of free markets and the price system goes back to Adam Smith. He was the first to offer a comprehensive statement that markets work and that a free market is the best way for a social order to allocate resources. In his Wealth of Nations he shows that countries with such a system prosper, while those without do not.

Friedrich Hayek extended the work of Smith and tried to provide insight as to why and how the free market system works. The key idea is that the price system is a mechanism for communicating information. The knowledge that is relevant for producing any good or service is never possessed by a single individual or a single group. Rather, it is dispersed among many market participants. The price system acts to spread this knowledge and coordinate the actions of individuals. Perhaps an example from Hayek will help.

Suppose somewhere in the world a new use for some material, say silver, has arisen, or that an important source of supply is eliminated. It is significant that it does not matter what is the cause of this new scarcity. All that the users of silver need to know is that silver is now more profitably employed elsewhere and they should economize. It is not even necessary that the majority of silver users know the new need. If only some know, they can direct silver to it highest use and fill in from other sources of supply. This, in turn, will influence the other users and suppliers of silver, and the substitutes of silver, and so on. And all the while, the vast majority may be unaware of the original causes of these changes. The whole acts as one market, not because anyone surveys the whole field or knows all the facts, but because the participants' limited fields of vision sufficiently overlap and, through intermediaries, communicate the relevant information to all. Because there is only one price—allowing for transport costs—means that had there been an all-knowing person possessing all the dispersed knowledge of the market, his pricing solution could only be the same as the one chosen by the market. As Hayek pointed out in his Nobel laureate lecture, we are only beginning to understand how subtle and efficient is the communication mechanism we call the market. It garners, comprehends and disseminates widely dispersed information better and faster than any system man has deliberately designed.

But there is another side to this story. The ideas advanced by Adam Smith were not only ideas. An abiding faith in the power of man's reason was augmented by the success in the physical sciences. From the middle of the 19th century to the 20th century there was a growing belief among some intellectuals that man's success in the physical world could be applied to the social order as well.

This was in part the intellectual genesis of the first grand experiment referred to earlier. In 1917, much of the world began organizing itself—forcibly and brutally—on a belief that centrally administered prices and planning is superior to a system based on free market prices. Surely, a group of bright people by intelligent design and management could increase social welfare better than a system that was undesigned and unmanaged. So, much of the world was subjected to socialism. But deprived of a mechanism to gather and disseminate the widely dispersed information on how to deploy society's resources for the production of goods and services, deprived of free market prices, it was inevitable that socialist countries would collapse. In retrospect, it would be impossible to design a more controlled experiment at the geopolitical level than the one we witnessed for most of this century. The verdict is in. The socialists have thrown in the towel. And in some of these countries, the new emergent hero is none other than Adam Smith.

So who still believes markets don't work? Apparently it is only the North Koreans, the Cubans and the active managers.

Now let us consider the second big experiment, that which began in academia in the 1950s. The early work of Markowitz, Miller, Sharpe and Fama was transforming the field of finance from an ad hoc collection of courses to a serious and legitimate field of academic and scientific inquiry. Their work shaped and defined the field of finance and how the investigation of market activity would proceed over the next thirty years. They spelled out the idea of market efficiency and provided evidence on its behalf.

The notion of efficient markets was simply a specific application to the financial markets of the more general idea that free and competitive markets work. Most people in the western world and especially in the US are ardent defenders of free enterprise, which depends on the idea that markets work. The literature on efficient markets over the last thirty years is a test of that proposition applied to the capital markets. The resounding success of these tests should bring joy to any fan of free markets.

Debate about active management vs. passive management began in earnest in the early 1970s. Already by then, researchers had uncovered considerable evidence that past prices were of little benefit in forecasting future prices in ways that would earn excess profits; that fundamental data was too quickly reflected in prices to allow such data to be used for beat-the-market purposes; and, most importantly for us, that professional money managers could simply not outperform markets in any meaningful sense. The latter tests are most pertinent for us, and of these, there is not one major published study that successfully claims that managers beat markets by more than one would expect by chance.

Several recent studies deserve brief mention. In the first major study of bond market performance, Blake, Elton and Gruber examine as many as 361 bond funds for the period starting in 1977. They compare the various active funds to simple index strategy alternatives. The authors find that the active funds, on average, underperform the index strategies by 85 basis points a year. Depending on the benchmark, between 65 and 80 percent of the funds generate excess performance that is negative.

In a study of equity mutual funds, Elton, Gruber, Hlavka and Das examine all funds that existed for the period of 1965-1984, 143 funds in all. These funds are compared to the set of index funds—big stocks, small stocks and fixed income—that most closely correspond to the actual investment choices made by the mutual funds. The result: on average these funds underperform the index funds by a whopping 159 basis points a year. Not a single fund generated positive performance that was statistically significant. In the most recent and comprehensive study done to date, a dissertation at the University of Chicago, Mark Carhart studies a total of 1,892 funds that existed any time between 1961 and 1993. After adjusting for the common factors in returns, an equal-weighted portfolio of the funds underperformed by 1.8% per year.

These studies, along with earlier studies, provide a fifty-year history of professional investment management. The message is clear: the beat-the-market efforts of professionals are impressively and overwhelmingly negative. In any asset class, the only consistently superior performer is the market itself.

It is well to consider, briefly, the connection between the socialists and the active managers. I believe they are cut from the same cloth. What links them is a disbelief or skepticism about the efficacy of market prices in gathering and conveying information.

Fortunately, there is something that makes these two groups dissimilar as well. The socialists, all too often, would impose their view on society, thus producing all the well-known painful consequences. The cost they impose is a public cost borne by nearly all members of a society. Active managers, on the other hand, are far more benign. They do their picking and timing, and because they do it too often, they impose costs on their clients. But the cost they impose is a private cost borne voluntarily by their clients. But the bottom line is, given all the evidence from history, geopolitics and academia, it just doesn't make sense to believe markets don't work. It is no longer a credible position.

Finally, aside from these considerations of theory and evidence, there is a very practical advantage to passive management. Passive management when applied to a client's entire portfolio is really asset class investing. This means investing literally in asset classes via passive portfolios that capture, in their entirety, the asset class or classes under consideration. For most asset classes there are long-time series of historical data that allow us to form reliable estimates of the risk of a given class and how closely the behavior of that class correlates with the behavior of other classes. An advisor can estimate the risk of different combinations of asset categories and find the overall portfolio strategy that best suits the circumstances and risk tolerance of his or her client. Thus, a financial advisor can use historical data to form a long-run plan. That plan can be implemented exactly by investing in those same asset classes via passive or asset class portfolios.

A policy formed this way is easy to communicate, is verifiable, and is eminently defensible. But, in addition, as all studies to date cogently show, such portfolios will outperform about 75% of all conventional portfolios.

But a financial advisor forfeits all of these advantages if he or she abandons passive investing. Actively managed portfolios seldom bear a reliable relation to any asset class. It is generally difficult to estimate future risk levels of actively managed portfolios, or to know how an active portfolio will relate to various asset classes in the future because such portfolios may experience radical shifts in their strategy. Thus, it is nearly impossible to engage in or implement long-range planning if the inputs are actively managed portfolios.

In short, asset class investing is consistent with what we know about how free and fair markets function. Active management is not. Asset class investing is supported by the results of scores of empirical studies of fifty years of professionally managed portfolios. Active management is not. Finally, asset class investing allows reliable planning and implementation of portfolio strategies. It is demonstrably successful and the most prudent way to invest a client's money.

By now, ladies and gentlemen, all of you probably agree with me. Those of you who have been seduced by the dark side of the force are surely eager to return home. But there is still one person who disagrees with us. And now it is time to hear from him.

Thank you very much.

This article contains the opinions of the author(s) and those interviewed by the author(s) but not necessarily Dimensional Fund Advisors or DFA Securities Inc., and does not represent a recommendation of any particular security, strategy or investment product. The opinions of the author(s) are subject to change without notice. Information contained herein has been obtained from sources believed to be reliable, but is not guaranteed. This article is distributed for educational purposes and should not be considered investment advice or an offer of any security for sale. Past performance is not indicative of future results and no representation is made that the stated results will be replicated.
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20070405

Empower Thyself

A new client was speaking to me the other day about being short on cash this month because of all the annual bills that came in; gym membership dues, car insurance, professional association dues, CPA fees for her taxes... You know, the bills that come once per year and are due at that time.

I was explaining to her a system (I didn't reinvent the wheel here) in which she could set aside a little each month and when the bill came due 12 months later, she'd have enough to pay it (them) off without dipping into her regular monthly income. Here's how it works, for those of you who haven't already tried it.

Find a bank or saving institution that will take automatic payments (automatically debit your checking account). (There are many options out there. You could try HSBC Direct, ING Direct, or your local bank. HSBC and ING pay decent interest rates on their savings accounts. If you're saving for at least 6 months, you might even get a better rate with a CD.) Open accounts under the appropriate bill names, such as Taxes, Gym, DMV registration, Business License, Association Dues (or one titled "Business" that holds all business related annual bills), Real Estate Taxes, Insurances, etc. You get the idea.

Now calculate how much you'd have to put aside each month to have enough to pay each in full when it comes due. If your CPA fees are $250 each April, divide 250 by 12, which means you'll want to set that account up to debit your checking account $20.83 per month. No big deal, right? You won't even notice it. Now do the same for your gym membership and all other annual bills.

Guess what will happen? You will feel empowered when it comes time to pay those bills. You'll log into your savings accounts and transfer the money into your checking account and pay the bill - nice going! You'll feel empowered and you'll be proud of yourself. And just as good - you'll not be "short on cash" for those months in which large payments are due.

Go ahead. Take care of yourself. Set it up.

In your corner. Tina Anders
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20070404

Prevent Identity Theft

With Identity Theft on the rise, it is important to be proactive in protecting ourselves. Here are a few ideas that you might find helpful.

The next time you order checks, have only your first name initial (instead of your first name), plus last name, printed on the checks. That way, if someone gets ahold of your check book, they won't know your full name, so they won't know how to sign your checks. When you bank gets the checks, they'll know if it's your signature or not.

Rather than putting your home phone number printed on your checks, have your work number there, instead. And use a PO Box or a work address, also. And never put your Social Security number on your checks. (You know this.)

Instead of signing the back of your credit cards, write, "PHOTO ID REQUIRED", or "PHOTO ID ONLY". This way, when merchants do look at the back of your card, they'll know to ask for a picture matching the name on the front of the card. (Note that I use this method and few people actually ask me for my I.D., yet it's a good measure for when they do ask.)

OK, so here's something that's potentially as helpful as it gets: Empty your wallet and put all of the cards, pieces of I.D., etc. on a copy machine - front and back. Put the copies in a file someplace safe. If your wallet turns up missing, you'll have everything you need in order to call credit cards companies, etc. If you have a passport, photocopy it as well and carry it with you when you travel abroad. If you lose it, you'll have a photocopy, which may avoid trouble getting home.

When you send checks to pay for your credit card bills, only put the last four numbers from your account on the check. If the check falls into the wrong hands, nobody will know the full account number. If it's printed on the return statement that you're sending with your check, black out all but the last four. Note that this may not work for online bill payments. I tried it with my online payments and the merchants did not credit my account - they weren't where to post the credit. It wouldn't hurt to check with your credit card merchants first.

I use a gel pen only when I sign anything. Gel pen signatures cannot be "copied", so have yours ready whenever you have something requiring your signature.

Use your credit card instead of your ATM/VISA Check Card whenever possible. Using your ATM/VISA card makes your checking account number available to merchants and their employees. If they use your bank account number for criminal purposes, instead of your credit card number, they can empty your checking account, just as they could charge up a large balance on your credit card. The difference to you, however, is that your credit card company can't hold you liable for more than $50 per card, while your bank may have no such policy. As someone stated to me recently: "It's a lot easier to get the charges off your credit card than it is to get your bank to deposit money into your account after it's been spent.

Now, if you do end up losing your wallet, passport, credit cards, etc., call the three credit reporting agencies and have them place a fraud alert on your name and Social Security number. Here you go:
Equifax: 800.525.6285
Experian: 888.397.3742
TransUnion: 800.680.7289
Social Security Administration fraud line: 800.269.0271

In your corner. Tina Anders
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20070403

Mutual Fund Evaluation

If you are like most people who want to invest their money, yet don't have the time or inclination to study the financial statements, ratios, or reports associated with a certain company whose stock or bonds you may be interested in, you might want to consider purchasing mutual funds.

Mutual funds are, in a nutshell, groups of investments (such as stocks or bonds) purchased and professionally managed by investment experts. The fund gives you diversification, meaning it owns many stocks/bonds, so all of your eggs aren't in one basket (such as having all of your investment dollars in Google - not a bad stock, yet you don't want to own just Google).
 
The question is, because there are several thousand mutual funds out there, how do folks go about choosing which funds are right for their portfolios?

A good place to start is on Morningstar's website. Click on the Funds tab and you'll find all sorts of commentary about various fund families, such as Vanguard or Fidelity. You can also go to the drop down box on the left side of the page and click on the fund family you are interested in learning about. This will take you to all of the funds this family offers, and using the links, you can compare their stats. Here's where you might begin:

1. What is the fund's rating? Morningstar gives Star ratings, with five stars being the best.

2. What is the minimum investment to get into the fund? Minimums can range from no minimum all the way up to six figures.

3. Is there a load for the fund, meaning is there a percentage charged in order to get into the fund, or out of it? I prefer no load funds - no percentage ever.

4. What is the expense ratio, which is the percentage of the fund's total assets that is used to cover expenses associated with the operation of the fund?

5. What is the fund's objective? Are they investing for income, meaning they'll provide income via bonds or preferred stock, for instance, or are they investing for growth, which is not going to yield much income, yet is targeted to provide long term capital appreciation. Or is it a balanced fund, which will do some of both. Be mindful of what you need in order to reach your goals, whether they are short-term or long-term. Fund objective is very important.

6. What type of fund is it? Foreign or global? Socially Responsible? Aggressive Growth? Sector (a specific industry)? Bond? Money Market? REIT (Real Estate Trust)? There are many more types of funds, each with their own unique objective.

7. What type of securities does the fund own? Are they in line with your comfort zone?

8. How many industries does the fund's portfolio include? Are its industry holdings in line with your comfort zone?

9. What is the fund manager's tenure - how long has the manager been with the fund?

10. What is the fund's performance over the past 1, 3, 5, 10 years? How does its performance compare to other funds in its category? To its benchmark? (S&P 500, Russell 2000, MSCI EAFE...)

11. What are the experts saying about this fund?

Note: Loads and high expense ratios can significantly reduce returns over time. I always recommend that folks look for funds that have no loads (there are plenty of top performers out there), and low expense ratios.

I hope you find these ideas helpful when you begin your research process for investing in mutual funds. There are many sources out there that you can use to evaluate mutual funds of your choosing. Use them wisely and be mindful of what your investing needs are. Avoid emotional investing. Use solid data to back up your strategy.

In your corner. Tina Anders
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20070402

Protect What You Have

So, you have some net worth; equity in your home, savings or investments, a car or two, a nest egg for retirement, an unincorporated business, money set aside for your kids' college education, collectibles, or anything else worth holding onto. Or, if you don't have these, say you have a conscience and a desire to do what is right. Now read on.

Imagine that one day you are trying to dial your cell phone while driving your car. Never happens, right? :) So, you're cruising along at a steady, conservative pace and all of a sudden you hear a thump and you slam on your brakes. You get out to see what happened and you see someone's prize breeder puppy dog lying in front of your bumper. It's alive, but it's not looking good. You find out it will probably return to normal health, yet not "prize breeding" health. The owners are beyond anger because they watched their sweet prize puppy get hit. The veterinary costs are astronomical and they aren't about to pay them.

What might you care about at this point? You might care about proper automobile insurance. You might care if your limits are high enough so that if they decide to sue you, they won't be able to touch your personal assets (some unincorporated businesses, equity, savings, investments, collectibles, cars, wages...). You might care that the damage to your car gets repaired. You should care that your coverage levels are such that you will be protected if you make a mistake, or if someone else does and they aren't insured. Here's a ballpark of what you may need. I always advise against going with the "minimum" coverages. Discuss this with your auto insurer, yet consider these figures:

  • Bodily Injury per person: $250,000
  • Per accident: $500,000
  • Property damage: $100,000
  • Deductibles (for damage to your vehicle): Choose what works for you, being mindful that when you raise your deductibles, your premiums go down.
  • Medical payments per person: $25,000
  • Uninsured Motorist per person: $250,000
  • Per accident: $500,000
  • You might also consider towing coverage and replacement (rental) car usage while your car is in the shop.

To give yourself an extra cushion of peace, you might consider umbrella insurance (aka personal catastrophe insurance). This usually starts with $1 million coverage and picks up where your auto and homeowners insurance leaves off. In other words, if your auto insurance leaves the plaintiff (the one suing you) short on award money (if you are found responsible for the accident), your umbrella policy kicks in and it will pay in addition to what your auto or homeowners paid. Your umbrella policy will also cover you for slander, libel, defamation of character and invasion of property. Keep in mind that if you are a business owner, you'll want to look into other liability coverage, as well.

You've worked hard and done a good job to have things in your life you love. Now take a step to keep them. Look over your auto insurance declarations page to check on your limits of coverage. If need be, see your insurance agent to discuss raising them. And be mindful of what you're up to!

We'll discuss homeowners, life, disability, health, and long term care insurances soon.

In your corner. Tina Anders

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20070401

Investment Risk Tolerance - Where's Your Comfort Zone?

Before you invest, or have someone invest for you, it is critical that you discover what type of investor you are; you must determine your comfort zone. Are you risk averse, risk tolerant, risk avoidant when investing? Discovering your comfort zone will help you, or your investment manager, choose appropriate investments for your portfolio.

Here's a quiz I found in a financial planning book, Personal Finance, by Kapoor, Dlabay and Hughes. Answering these questions will help you decide what type of investor you are, and armed with that information, what to look for when investing.

Here you go:

1. You're the winner on a TV game show. Which prize do you choose?
a. $2,000 in cash (1 pt.)
b. A 50 percent chance to win $4,000 (3 pts.)
c. A 20 percent chance to win $10,000 (5 pts.)
d. A 2 percent chance to win $100,000 (9 pts.)

2. You're down $500 in a poker game. How much more would you be willing to put up to win the $500 back?
a. More than $500 (8 pts.)
b. $500 (6 pts.)
c. $250 (4 pts.)
d. $100 (2 pts.)
e. Nothing - you'll cut your losses now. (1 pt.)

3. A month after you invest in a stock, it suddenly goes up 15 percent. With no further information, what would you do?
a. Hold it, hoping for further gains (3 pts.)
b. Sell it and take your gains (1 pt.)
c. Buy more - it will probably go higher (4 pts.)

4. Your investment suddenly goes down 15 percent one month after you invest. Its fundamentals still look good. What would you do?
a. Buy more. If it looked good at the original price, it looks even better now. (4 pts.)
b. Hold on and wait for it to come back (3 pts.)
c. Sell it to avoid losing even more (1 pt.)

5. You're a key employee in a start-up company. You can choose one of two ways to take your year-end bonus. Which would you pick?
a. $1,500 in cash (1 pt.)
b. Company stock options that could bring $15,000 next year if the company succeeds, but will be worthless if it fails (5 pts.)

Total points? ______________

Scoring:
5-8 pts. You are a more conservative investor. You prefer to minimize financial risks. The lower your score, the more cautious you are. When you choose investments, look for high credit ratings, well-established records, and an orientation toward stability. In stocks, bonds, and real estate, look for a focus on income.

19-30 pts. You are a less conservative investor. You are willing to take more chances in pursuit of greater rewards. The higher your score, the bolder you are. When you invest, look for high overall returns. You may want to consider bonds with higher yields and lower credit ratings, the stocks of newer companies, and real estate investments that use mortgage debt.

Did you learn something about yourself? Be mindful of this information when you choose investments. It will help you sleep well at night and in the long run, make for a happier you.

There is much more to consider when choosing investments, and now you have a place from which to start (or to make adjustments in your current portfolio).

In your corner. Tina Anders
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20070331

Your Goals and You - The Twain Shall Meet

Let's begin with your goals. Where do you want to be financially, and at what age? Some people want to send their kids (or grandkids) to school at a certain time, others want to retire by a certain age. Some may want to buy a car, while others want to take extensive travel trips. What about the potential wedding, or other big celebration? And let's not assume that you might not want to do all of these.

It may very well be possible for you to achieve your financial dreams if you are willing to take the time to find out what they may cost you, financially and otherwise. A 14 year old with no savings to date who wants to have $1 million by the age of 60 could invest $86.26 per month from now till then and with a fair return of 10%, would have that $1 million!(The stock market has achieved 10.3% average annual return for the past thirty years; 1976-2006.) That is good news for many 14 year olds! Now, if you have more years behind you, you'll have to save more to have that $1 million. If you're, say, 30 instead of 14, you'll need to invest $442.38 per month. But wait, what if you want to be a millionaire at 65 instead? OK, now all you need to invest is $263.39 per month! Not bad. And these figures are assuming you have no savings. Try the "compound interest" calculator on this blog site!

You see, time may be on your side. Albert Einstein said that compound interest was the "Eighth Wonder of the World." He wasn't kidding! The more you do now, even if it doesn't seem like much, the better off you'll be. And not only will you thank yourself, you'll be proud of yourself too. That's as good as it gets. Give yourself that gift. Make a move today to find a way to achieve some financial esteem.

In your corner. Tina Anders
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